Moving on to the rear valance… it became apparent that there was some rear end damage when I removed the undercoating. But I didn’t know to what extent yet, just that there had been body filler applied on either side of the valance. Which also caused moisture to accumulate in the seams and rust was starting to peak through on the outside.
Once I removed the paint and a half inch or more body filler on the passengers side, I found out just how bad the damage was. And it wasn’t pretty. I’m assuming it was more cost effective for the body shop to beat the panel sort of back into shape and layer coats of filler on top.
Replacement valances were too pricey in my opinion and I figured that I could make my own replacement pieces.
So I began by cutting out the damaged area including the lower surround of the tail light panel, then straightened the box frame underneath and removed the rust with a wire wheel and rust proofed.
After I primed the area, I would need to replace a little at a time to cover the entire valence and surround in new steel.
Starting with the lower tail light surround, I began fitting steel I had cut to size and bent to the correct shape until it was complete.
I knew I wasn’t going to replace the rear bumper and I smoothed out the indentation for it on the drivers side quarter, so I figured I’d do the same for the rear valance. Which also made it much easier to repair.
Moving on to the drivers side, I did the cut, clean, prime, replace process then finished the center doing the same.
Not bad. I’m probably biased because I like these cars with the rear valance completely smoothed out, but I feel this turned out alright. Minimal filler should be needed and I have piece of mind knowing that the steel box section behind the valance has been rust proofed.
With this fabrication portion done (yes, there are still little pieces on the bottom corners that I’ll need to make and weld in, but I will do that at a later time), it was time to knock out the passengers side quarter.
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